Using French pattern sheets

On this page you will find useful information and help on using vintage French sewing patterns-in sheet form. Please go to the pre-cut pattern page for help with sewing vintage french pre-cut patterns. I will be putting in photos and guides-but please get in touch if you are stuck! I am assuming you have a basic knowledge of using patterns ie. cutting out, pining, cutting double, transferring tailors marks and seams. If not I suggest you refer to one of the many guides online-for instance the following fantastic tutorial and guide from Angela Kane-  http://www.youtube.com/user/angelakanetv/featured?ad=11844089252&kw=sewing&feature=pyv&v=qZzCsI_zRno or   http://www.wikihow.com/Sew-Using-Patterns

Using pattern sheets

Many vintage French sewing patterns were published on large sheets(planches) with numerous lines on them. Don’t be scared!

General Instructions-scroll down for more detailed pictures and tips about using Femmes d’aujourd’hui vintage sewing pattern sheets, Mode Patique and Mode Illustree vintage sewing pattern sheets

Victorian vintage French sewing patterns in particular incude a large number of lines on the sheets, but once you get used to following the lines you need then you will find it easier, Usually the lines are drawn in different styles for each numbered piece to aid recognition.

Simply refer to your pattern guide-select the relevant numbers for instance Manche(sleeve) is number 5, so follow lines given for number 5- and trace off the relevant pieces-I often re-use an unwanted pattern to trace off. I pin the paper over the pattern sheet and using a pattern tracer follow the lines..

On occasion-particularly with earlier patterns, the line designs will appear to “fold over” back on to the main sheet…this device was employed to fit the pattern onto the main sheet for publication. You will need to use a larger tracing sheet than you think…when you come to the fold, simpy fold your tracing sheet back over the main sheet and carry on tracing. When you have finished you can then fold your tracing paper back flat and the whole pattern will appear as required for cutting out.

Sometimes the pattern needs to be elongated …it will indicate “a prolonger…(50cm)”…..this means you will need to draw straight lines at this point by whatever the pattern indicates for instance 50cm-Remember to use a larger tracing sheet to allow for this!

Then cut them out and use in the usual way

Remember that when sewing vintage french patterns They never include Seams and hems allowances(apart from the series Elle Va Bien) so add these in….

Femmes d’aujourd’hui vintage sewing pattern sheets

 

You will now have your pattern ready to use-DON’T FORGET THAT YOU WILL NEED TO ADD IN ALLOWANCES FOR SEAMS AND HEMS!!

Using Mode Pratique vintage sewing pattern sheets

These sheets consist of many lines and the garment patterns to be found are listed around edge of the sheet.

1) Choose the garment you are going to make and note the numbers required. For instance I want to make the Cape so I am choosing numbers 22,23 and 24. “A replier” means cut double

2) Start by tracing out ONE piece at a time. For instance number 24 which is indicated by a line shaped ~~~o~~~o~~~~ I will find the number of the piece on the sheet to trace out and its line

Run your finger along the line-does it appear to “fold back on itself”? It will say “Pliure du patron” where the fold occurs.If so remember to use  larger sheet of tracing paper.

• The piece may need lengthening-this is not on the sheet of lines but written on the pattern picture on the side of the sheet. It will say ”a prolonger (60cm or whatever length required)”

3) Pin your tracing paper(I use an unwanted pattern, you can buy Kwik sew tracing paper on line) over the area and trace out. If you have to fold back, draw your lines up to the “fold” then fold your paper over and carry on tracing. When you unfold the tracing paper the whole piece will be there. Remember to add in markings such as darts,notches and numbers, including “droit Fil”(which means on the grain of the fabric)..

4) Common markings include

• Milieu Dos-middle back
• Droit fil sans couture-Straight edge without seam
• Milieu Devant-middle front
• Pliure de tissu-fabric fold
• Devant/Dos couture Fronces-Front/Back gathered seam
• Pince-dart

Your pattern piece is now ready to use-don’t forget to add in seams and hem allowances!

Using Mode Illustree vintage sewing pattern sheets

These sheets consist of many lines and the garment patterns to be found are listed around edge of the sheet.

1) Choose the garment you are going to make and note the numbers required. For instance I want to make the knickers(Pantalons) in fig 1 so I am choosing number 93. “A replier” means cut double. “Raccourci” means shorter version

Larger pieces are sometimes not given on the main sheet-instead they are given as a mini pattern-or “croquis reduit” (mini design) with the description. You will need to enlarge this by means of squared paper, or use www.rapidresizer.com with the image scanned.

2) Start by tracing out ONE piece at a time. For instance number 93 which is indicated by a line shaped x.x.x.x.   I will find the number of the piece on the sheet to trace out -and its corresponding line.

Run your finger along the line-does it appear to “fold back on itself”? the line x.x.x.x will stop and will join a line usually ——- which is where the fold occurs.If so remember to use  larger sheet of tracing paper. This is shown in the picture below-a bit hard to spot!

3) Pin your tracing paper(I use an unwanted pattern, you can buy Kwik sew tracing paper on line) over the area and trace out. If you have to fold back, draw your lines up to the “fold” then fold your paper over and carry on tracing. When you unfold the tracing paper the whole piece will be there. Remember to add in markings such as darts,notches and numbers, including “droit Fil”(which means on the grain of the fabric)..

4) Common markings include

• Milieu Derriere/devant-middle back/front
• Pince–dart
• Milieu du devant-middle of front
• Bord de Derriere-back border
• (Petits) Pli(s)- (small) pleat (s)
• Couture de Derriere/devant -back/front seam
• Taille-waist
• Bord du Devant-edge of the front
• Pince-dart
• cote replie-repeat side
• bord superieur de la moitie de…..upper edge of the half

You can now use your pattern-remember to add in seams and hem allowances when cutting out!